Friday in Squamish/Whistler
First, I must say that this is bear country, and we've yet to see one. Second, this is eagle country, and we've only seen one.
We're in Squamish, a lumber town that has reinvented itself as a rock climber's destination. There is also lots of hiking and biking here. Today, on Joe's recommendation, we're taking a specific hiking tour in Whistler. Whistler was on our agenda for today, but he gave us some great ideas for seeing the area..he's climbing The Chief again today. Whistler is the host community for most of the Winter 2010 Olympic Games, and is already recognized as the Number One ski resort in the world. So, we drive up the Sea to Sky Highway about 45 minutes from Squamish. Not being resort people, I'm ready to just blow through Whistler, but we should at least see the Village where the world is coming this winter. The road work, as you can imagine, is intense. There is a deadline imposed by the weather, so crews are working round the clock to build wider roads to the area. Parking lots must be leveled and graveled, and many other things we would never think of. The housing construction business is in over-drive, also, and new condo complexes fill every almost-level surface. There are not many level surfaces in this part of the world! Stuart had a conversation with our hostel host, who told him that every hotel within 100 miles was booked a year ago for this winter. One group has booked the whole hostel in Squamish. We have read that condos in Whistler are renting for $30,000 for the month of February.
When we arrive in Whistler, our first stop is the visitor center. The Village (that's a capital V, mind you) is completely planned village. The entire place: hotels, restaurants, retail stores, the parking lots, fire department, everything was planned and built at the same time, in the same style. The woman at the visitor's center is from Atlanta, and lived there during the 1996 Olympics...said she's excited to be working and living through a 'once in a lifetime event twice'. After being in Athens after their hosting experiences, and hearing the financial woes, I wonder how many host cities benefit. The teamwork required to produce such an event is the ultimate test of management skills. So, we're here to buy two tickets for the gondola to the top of Whistler, and then a separate gondola from the peak of Whistler to the peak of Blackcomb. $80 later, we're ready for the ride to the top, and some hiking. This is a major biking destination, different from Moab, another dirt biking destination. The bikers are so numerous in the summer, there is a separate line for them and their bikes to board the gondolas. I am fascinated! What fun the trip down the mountain must be! I'd love to do it. I know, DUMB idea, and it's not going to happen. Fragile bones make some choices for me. So, we get on the gondola with four other people, and make the 25 minute ride to the top. The views are awesome!
Here are a few of the skiing/biking trails I read: Ratfink, Chunky's Choice, Ego Bowl (think this might be a tough one?), Harmony Express, Rabbit Tracks, Green Acres, Jolly Green Giant.
We hiked to the top of one of the peaks at the top of Whistler(don't know the name!), to one of the open chair lifts, not in use right now. This is called the T-bar, and apparently, the skier grabs the bar and is towed to the top. Hey, I'm not a skier, so I'm guessing about this. At any rate, you can tell how much snow is required to make this tow useful.
The glaciers around us are like distant huge bowls of ice cream. It's a warm day, clear and sunny, but the wind is cold. So, our Flatlanders hearts and lungs are warming us nicely as we hike to the top. Just my hands are cold. There are mountain peaks and glaciers are far as we can see in every direction. Beautiful scenery, no wonder this is the Number One ski resort in the world. And, when the world arrives in February, they will love it, too. I just hope they bring cash...
This is where the bikers come off the mountain. I watched them from the gondola when while we are coming down the mountain, and the bikers look like they are having so much fun! Some have done as many as 5 trips down the mountain today. They come off the mountain in a great RUSH, right in the middle of The Village. There are picnic tables at the fence, making for a perfect spot of spectators.
We drive back to Squamish, and our hostel, making a quick stop at the local grocery store, Nesters, for dinner fixin's. A drink on the patio, to collect our thoughts about tomorrow, ends the sunlight. Joe returned, battered hands thickly greased after a day of Cracking on the Chief. He explains that Cracking is a form of rock climbing where you insert your flat hand in a crack in the rock, then make a fist (essentially) to hold your body to the mountain while your feet find another place to stand. Bare-handed is tough, as his hands prove. We join three other climbers in the communal kitchen to prepare our dinners, we're having eggs, cheese, lettuce on a multi-grain tortilla. Most of them are having some kind of pasta, lots of carbs for energy burning activities! I love hearing the conversations, the language of the climbers and the first languages of the travelers. Joe's guide is a Crack Addict: he teaches people to climb with their fists in the cracks! Then, there is Bouldering, and others. Wish I'd written down some of the words they used. We listened to them tell about climbing here and other places, and checked out the wild shoes and climbing gear. Like most other sports, this is not cheap to get into.
Speaking of sports and money: the bikers spend more than most everyone else, except maybe skiers. Those fancy dirt bikes start at $2000, and then you must have the body armor (lots of hi-tech pads for all the major joints), crash helmet, and of course, the stylish clothes and shoes. Goggles. Gloves. Socks. I learned that they would outfit me, bike/armor/lesson/lift ticket for $150 for half day. I could never do it, though. I don't have the right shoes.
Joe and the other climbers, and Stuart and I talk until late, when the German guy went to bed. He's been traveling in Canada for 6 months, using only public transportation, and tomorrow he's catching the bus for the ferry to Vancouver Island. We give him a couple of places to see and stay before he retires. We enjoyed hearing the travel stories from some of the other travelers; The young man from Ontario has been working in non-profit type jobs for several years, teaching under-privileged kids climbing and paddling. He's between jobs now, but has some possibilities, and is enjoying traveling for a few weeks.
Tomorrow, we move north. Joe is meeting some friends, arriving from Kelowna late tonight, and they will climb together for a couple of days. He's returning to Kelowna early Tuesday, and we exchange phone numbers, and arrange to meet and maybe stay with him. He's a doctor, and must return to work Tuesday night. Nice place, nice people.
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