Day of the Dead, Oaxaca

It has been said that nowhere in Mexico is Dia de los Muertos celebrated with as much gusto as in Oaxaca. The comparsas, or parades begin a couple of days before the actual Day of the Dead holidays. Just as in the States, All Hallow's Eve is celebrated, but here it is in anticipation of seeing dead loved ones beginning Nov 1. All Saints Day is November 1, is the day for remembering dead children and infants, sometimes known as The Day of the Innocents or Day of the Little Angels.  All Souls Day is November 2, for remembering passed adults.  It is a joyous week!  Families build altars in their homes, with much input from the children.  Many businesses and restaurants build elaborate altars, with orange flowers, candles, photos of dead loved ones, and lots of food and drinks to invite the spirit of the loved ones to return for the day. We have been in some villages where the family takes the favorite food and drinks to the cemetery, along with a piece of burning copal. The spirit then returns home with the living family, to enjoy a meal together, before returning to the Other World.

I'm sad to see the commercialization creeping into the celebrations here.  Every year I see more gruesome masks and costumes, mostly on teen-agers.  Catrina, dressed in all white is a common symbol for both adults and children.  The face painting is terrific!  But, the altars are still the center of attention, and the meals and trips to cemetery begin at midnight tonight, and will continue for the next two days.  Families will hold quiet vigils, with many huge white candles and wheelbarrows full of orange flowers on the graves. In some cemeteries the celebration will be quiet, in others there will be bands and parties and much laughter.  Every village and neighborhood has a distinctly different celebration.  But, they all include food, flowers and drinks!

Mescal is often shared with people watching the comparsas.  The woman in the photo above is pouring a mescal for me!   I've been handed cups of mescal, sandwiches, cups of atole, small pumpkins and woven items.  Last night, a comparsa member handed me her candle and shield!  The photo below is the "sag wagon" following a band and comparsa. Notice the keg of beer in the middle of the photo.

 The San Pablo museum hosts a courtyard of altars, decorated in the various styles of the groups of people living in the State of Oaxaca.  This one below was particularly pretty, even if the photo doesn't show it.

 A special bread is baked and sold everywhere for Dia de los Muertos.  There is always a facebaked into the loaf, a sweet egg bread, always served with cups of hot chocolate.  Mescal is served with everything!