Xilitla, and Las Pozas gardens

For several years, since I read a book about northern Veracruz and eastern San Luis Potosi states, I've had a hankering to see this reportedly fantastic garden. It's in a town that is not on my map, but a google search turns up the remote location.  We've traveled to some pretty remote places in Mexico, but this one has us scratching our heads.  So, with a general idea, we travel to Tuxpan from the Costa Emeralda and Nautla.  That means standing by the road, to wait for a second class bus to a near-by town, then finding the bus station and traveling further north.  We spend a night in the port city of Tuxpan.  The river is wide, and it's too smelly to enjoy.  There are several small river taxis running back and forth across the river from a small village to downtown Tuxpan.  The city is trying, however, to make a good impression.

One night in Tuxpan is enough.  We wanted to avoid Tampico, after our friend Rafael told us about the drug gangs there, but there is no way to get to Xilitla from here without going to Tampico.  The drug gangs aren't looking to harm a couple of gringo tourists, but it doesn't seem like a pleasant place.  We have very comfortable seats on our favorite bus line, ADO, a first-class line. Watching our progress on my GPS is part of our entertainment, and we notice the driver is taking back roads to Tampico, stopping a couple of times to ask for directions!  Suddenly, the road disappears, a river is rushing across the road.  The water flow has washed away part of the pavement, and there is a drop-off on the down-current side.  I put my shoes on quickly, in anticipation of getting off this bus.  The conductor gets off the bus, standing in shin-deep water, and directs the driver through the flow, and on the up-side of the river flowing across the road.  Most folks on the bus don't seem to take any notice, but I'm terrified of washing down the river!

 

Several hours later, we arrive in Tampico, and buy tickets to Ciudad Valles, another 2 hours.  The accent in this part of the country is very different, much "thicker", and while I understand the people I talk to, they have a hard time understanding me!  The bus leaves the busy central of Tampico in less than an hour of our arrival, late in the day.  The road is in bad shape, but the new road is under construction, and it's going to be a nice road.  The driver is considerate, and knows every tope and bump, and drives with confidence after the sun sets.  When we arrive in Ciudad Valles, I find a ratty hotel, and we look for some supper and a beer.  For the past few days, we've spent a lot of time traveling, and it's good to be close to our destination.  From Ciudad Valles, we will travel tomorrow, on a local bus, 2 hours to Xilitla.

Ciudad Valles is a hub in this pretty mountainous area.  There are lots of water falls and beautifual sights close by, according to my research, but I'm heading for Xilitla, and the gardens built by Edward James, a British artist.  He wanted to build a Garden of Eden ,and after a freak cold snap in the mid-1040's killed thousands of orchids, he began designing and building a cement garden of sculptures in the tropical-zone forest that is hard to describe. Fantastical, curious, funky cement  sculptures such as a staircase that leads nowhere, a would-be cinema for the people of Xilitla (never used as that),small houses and workshops, and all sorts of  Audrey-looking (Little Shop of Horrors) giant flowers.  James died in 1984, leaving no provision for maintaining this fantastic place, and it sat neglected for 10 years.  In the early 1990's, the gardens were acquired by a wealthy philanthropist, the State of San Luis Potosi, and the giant cement company, Cemex.  An appropriate group.  They've done a terrific job of renovating and restoring much of the gardens.  Today, Xilitla is a Pueblo Magio, because of the gardens and the incredible natural beauty of the area.  The town is very small, the people are very friendly and warm.  There are several, good-quality hotels here,including the B&B in the house his builder lived in that is as curious as the gardens.  There are several good restaurants in the small town, too.

It was raining and cold, but nothing was going to stop me from seeing those gardens!   It's hard to believe James found this beautiful little valley, with dozens of hidden waterfalls and beautiful vistas.  It's harder to believe this place isn't better publicized, and that the roads from the small village to the gardens aren't paved.  

I write all this detail for those who might want to go.  It is far easier to get to Xilitla from Queretero, where we spent a few days after Xilitla.   But, that's another post!  These photos are for me, but I hope you enjoy them, too!