Tuesday, November 19, 2013

Hierve el Agua, Oaxaca

            We took a break from studying food to join the Hoofing It In Oaxaca group on a trip to Hierve el Agua.  I have described this gorgeous place about 1.5 hours from the city as the place of the Petrified Waterfall.  Of course, it's not petrified water, but it looks like it!  The water has a high mineral content, and the constantly flowing springs cause the minerals to accumulate and form pools on the top, and fantastic, colorful formations down the side of the mountains.  Across the valley, small patches of corn and maguey break the velvety smoothness of the forest.  I can just barely see a network of paths worn by burros and men who work the remote fields. 

Getting to Hierve el Aqua is a bit of an adventure because of its remote location and many visitors come here with a guide and driver they've hired in Oaxaca.  The roads close to the small village are not in good shape despite the toll on one section.  Getting here on your own is not so bad, but getting back is more difficult.  Collectivo drivers don't hang around here waiting for a group because the tourists hire a cab or guide in the city.  But, mostly, it's locals who drive up here to this quiet place to soak in the pools and enjoy the endless sky.   In the past, we've taken the bus to Mitla or Tlacolula and hired a cab from there with the arrangement that the driver will give us a couple of hours there.  Going with the HiiO group was fun, easy and reasonably priced.

Today was gorgeous, after a few days of cold and wet.  The usual Friday hiking group participants are all here, and the conversation is lively.

Stuart, Francine and I hiked part of the way around and down the mountain, just far enough to get a view of the pools and the top of the waterfall.  The photo here...




After a picnic lunch under a big tree, Francine and I took a dip in the mineral water, and enjoyed the sunshine and truly endless blue sky.


The man selling the ricas pinas locas caught my eye when we arrived.  The pineapples were not crazy, but local!

After returning to the city and a quick shower and we hurried to the Teatro Alcala for the last movie in the week-long cinema festival.  Tonight, a series of  old footage of the city, beginning in the early 1900's, with scenes of Rufino Tamayo painting a mural, the awful devastation of the earthquake in the early 1930's, the introduction of the railroad and more scenes from a younger city.  The film sections were accompanied by a band, on stage, and a singer with a perfectly eerie, beautiful voice.  The sound efffects man had us convinced what we heard was really coming from the screen.  The highlight for me, however, was the artist.  Alejandro Magadallenas, the artist featured in the current exhibit at the San Augustin Etla CaSa, drew the history of the city in between film sections.  Using an overhead projector and ink, he created images that the band enforced with emotion.  Later, Stuart told me he never realized that the drawing was done live!  From our seats in the first balcony, he couldn't see the artist on the floor of the theater. 

It was a perfect day at Hierve el Agua and the music/drawing/film at el Teatro Alcala.
Posted by Picasa

No comments: