Almost final stuf....

The penultimate cocktail hour...

Claire took a one-day cooking class at Los Naranjas, a fine nuevo cocina restaurant in the neighborhood. She learned to make this delicious first course, plantains in salsa. Plantains must be cooked, and I'm in love with the dessert presentation: sauted and served with crema. And, I picked up another way to serve them at Ganesh Cooperative, in San Marcos, Guatemala. But, this was totally different, and I love it! Claire, Jim, Stuart and I had sunset cocktails, with popcorn of course, and she shared the largese from her class.

Slice the plantains into thick coins, leave the skins on. Bring them to a boil, simmer for 10 minutes. Drain, and let cool. Peel, mash. Add a tiny bit of flour, and form into a ball. Refrigerate for 15 minutes.

Griddle roast two tomatoes, 1/2 onion and 1 or 2 serrano chiles. Peel, reserving the juices. Whirl in the blender until smooth. Set aside.

From little balls with the plantain/flour mixture, press a piece of quesillo, or rope cheese into the ball, and roll into a small log. Saute each log in a little olive oil. Serve on top of the salsa. Delicious!

Paul, Stuart and I walked out to the city cemetary one recent morning. Stuart I like to go there to see the artwork and enjoy the quiet. The cemetery was begun in the small pox epidemic in the 1840's. At the time, the cemetary was far outside the city. Then, a cholera epidemic hit the city in the 1870's. The city hired an architect to build a wall around the growing cemetary, which was still far from the city. The wall is beautiful, and boasts 100 arches, creating a covered walkway around the perimeter. There are vaults built into the outside wall of the wall. Of course, now the cemetary is in town, and has expanded to several times the original size.

This photo is of the original center of the cemetary. This cross has what we think are masonic symbols, Mayan symbols and christian symbols scultped in it. The base is thick with wax, from the most recent Day of the Dead celebration.

Later that same day, Arlene met us, and we had the best memelitas in town for lunch. Small, hand-made tortillas, curled up at the edges, swiped with asciento, bean puree and, in this case, avocado, cilantro, tomato and onion, all chopped.

The weekly State Symphony concert was moved to the beautiful Macedonia Alcala Theater, just one block from the zocalo. The threat of teacher demonstration cancelled the concert last weekend, and apparently they decided to take no chances today. It's the last concert of the regular season, but I understand they play occasionally during the summer. The Alcala Theater is almost as beautiful as Thalian Hall, built about the same time, and in the same style. Lolita, Arlene, Paul, Stuart and I walked to the theater together, meeting the rest of the 'hood on the way. We laughed, as we all headed upstairs to the box seats, to get a good view, and we all ended up side-by-side. They put on a wonderful last show, just for Stuart and me, I believe! Paul recognized the Missoursgky as a piece that Emerson, Lake and Palmer covered on a 1971 album...they also played one Bach, one Chopin, a Glenn Miller medley, and a piece by a Cuban composer whose name I don't remember. We love 'our' little maestro, he has so much energy and animation!

Paul, Arlene, Lolita and Stuart in our box at the concert.


We've had several "last supper's", not just evening meals. Today, we had breakfast at our favorite, Marco Polo, by the Llano park. A pretty, garden restaurant that is popular with the locals. Yesterday, we had a last tlayuda, a sort of mexican pizza, at our favorite puesta in the mercado, and a last nieve after the concert today. Tuna and coco, flowers of the cactus called tuna, and coconut.

We've packed, not too much work. The food left, not much, will go to Manuel and Josefina, and I'm giving Josefina the blender I bought. The neighbors are stopping by this afternoon to say goodbye, but we'll probably see them in the morning, we leave at 9am. Now, time for our last sunset cocktails on the roof, and then esquites on the street for dinner.

Adios, Oaxaca!

San Augustin Etla

The Tuesday Hiking group trip this week was to San Augustin Etla, one of the many "Etla" villages north of Oaxaca. There is no bus service to these villages, so we caught a colectivo at the second class bus station for the 20 minute trip. The main road into San Augustin Etla is dirt/rock, surprising to gringos because there appears to be some monied people living here. It's a pretty village, with lots of water, new houses with swimming pools and views of the valley to envy. One of our neighbors plays golf here every week, too, but I've never seen the golf course. This is also the home to the old yarn spinning factory turned into art gallery, thanks to the generosity of Francisco Toledo. That beautiful old building alone is worth the trip, and there is always a good art exhibit on display.

We gathered in the square by the Toledo gallery, by one of the beautiful ponds, and started the climb up the hill. The first 15 minutes were up steep streets, to the city reservoir. From there, even though we were climbing steadily, the gain in altitude was so gradual we didn't notice. The picture to the left is the beginning of the aquaduct.









It took almost no time before we were out of the village, with breathtaking views of the village and across the valley. The aquaduct is cement, less than 3 feet wide and about 3 feet deep. The water was rushing, proving that we were climbing! The trail was one person wide most of the way to the spring on top of the mountain, but in a few places was only one footprint wide. Stuart is walking on the rim of the aquaduct in this image...the Snuffy Smith trail!












This is the magnificent view we had for the two hour hike to the top of the mountain. Here, the trail is very narrow...those with a fear of heights had turned back by this time.

There is an old power generator building at the top of the mountain, no longer in use. Apparently there is a road up to the building, but I didn't see it. I'm very respectful of the people who built this aquaduct, having to haul cement up here to build and maintain the canal. We saw cement markers with various dates as we walked, the oldest dated 1882.

















We reached the top of the mountain in 2 hours walking time. The stream was free flowing up here, and I took advantage of the time and the rocks to dip my feet into the water. I'm not sure if it was cold by comparison, or really cold. But, it was refreshing! This was the best of the hikes, even though I'd only been on three this trip. Stuart did several more. Joy and Rick, the hosts for the hikes, and Stuart and I agreed that this was the best. And, our last hike here, we leave next Monday.

Four of the hikers took the 'low road', following the stream, back to the village. I was too hungry, and took the viaduct trail back, thinking about comida! After lunch, Joy and Rick, Stuart and I toured the current exhibit at the Toledo Gallery, which was hand-made paper and drawings on that paper. Oaxacan artists and Japanese artists showed their skills.

This is my favorite piece in the exhibit, even though I liked some of the drawings very much too!

Tule and Barbacoa

Y'all, we had barbeque today. The whole, er um, sheep. Barbacoa in Santa Maria El Tule (yes, another village with three names) is a Sunday tradition, one that we love. So, about mid-day, we caught a bus out to El Tule. There are several barbacoa restaurants in the little town, and we've tried several of them over the years. We're never been disappointed. Today, we sat down in Antonio's restaurant, and he promptly pulled up a chair to talk to the only gringos in town. He was very proud to tell us, in his 25 words of english, that he had lived in Arizona and Minneapolis. We all shuddered with the thought of being there right now, with all the cold and snow! But, he was happy there, made 'good money', and is glad to be home.

Antonio soon brought our plates, piled high with barbacoa and hand-made tortillas. He told me that the sheep is cooked whole, with onions, tomatoes, garlic and mucho hierba buena, a distinctive herb used often when cooking beans here. It's not similar to anything at home, but will grow in SENC. The entire animal is put into a pit, with the hot coals underneath, and it is covered with banana leaves, and burlap and more hot coals. I think it is all covered with a piece of tin, but I'm not sure about that. It cooks for 24 hours, and is delicious! They save the head, and other choice parts for special dishes. It was tender, tasty and memorable.

After lunch, we waddled across the street to see the largest tree in the world. The one with the largest circumference, that is. It was measured in 2005 by some Official People, and was prounced to be 119 feet around. It's age is reported by the locals to be more than 2000 years old, but those same Offical People, after some testing, believe it to be 1400 - 1650 years old. It's a cypress, and there are several others, not as large or as old, on the other side of the church courtyardwhere the Big One lives. School children can be seen, on spring days, giving tours to people, pointing out the animals that really live in the huge tree, and the images that the bark creates.

Believe it or not, we had room for a nieve, this time a Beso de Oaxaquena, Kiss of Oaxaca, and we ate it sitting under one of the pretty ficus trees in the square. Lovely afternoon, as you can see from the intense blue sky in the photo.

San Jeronimo Tlacochahuya

San Jeronimo Tlacochahuya.  Many towns in Mexico have three names:  the name of the patron saint of the town, and, in Oaxaca, a Mayan or Zapotec name.  There are many towns called Etla, so it's necessary to use all three names in order to identify the correct one.  Mostly, though, locally towns are just called by one name.  This is the famous church in Tlacochahuaya.  I didn't take a photo from the front gate...the courtyard around the church is fully walled.  In three corners, there are small arched roof, open air chapels where the Dominican padres fully intended to convert all the local savages.  The courtyard could hold about 5000 people, telling the size of the village when the Spanish arrived in this remote place.

They Spanish began building this church in about 1542, completing it a few decades later.  The indigenous paintings covering almost every surface are delightful, full of color and imagination.  The ceiling is covered with paintings, too, much like most every church built in the 16th century, but this one is not quite as formal as most of the others.  Right now, the church is undergoing extensive renovations, paid for by a private corporation, and some of the retablos have been removed for repair.  The two most famous ones are still in the church:  a Christ on the cross figure that has something to do with corn; and a series oil paintings depicting the legend of the Virgin of Guadalupe, with the last one showing the roses miraculously tumbling from Juan Diego's cape.

For me, though, the best part of the church is the bright painting, and the colonial period organ upstairs.  The organ is now only played by guest musicians, but it's pretty paintings match those of the rest of the church.  The bellows are the size of my dining room table, and require two men to operate!  The pipes of the organ, above the keyboard, are painted, too.  The air vents are painted to look like the mouths of a saint!

Behind the church, and attache to it, is the exconvento, being restored, too.  After touring the church, we walked through the park beside the church, and met Juan Carlos, JC, who had just returned to his home after being in LA for 15 years.  He was all smiles, talking about how much he loved being in LA, and would probably go back.  Often, locals we've talked to who speak pretty good english have been in the States.  Some want to return, others are happy to be home.  JC could only talk about going back.  When we asked him about the danger of going back, he only said that taking luggage was a problem.  After several conversations like this, I believe the men who travel illegally don't worry about the danger of travelling to the States, just the inconvenience.  JC's mother stood in the shade of the church while we visited, proud to have her son home.

Dainzu, Tlacolula

Saturday morning, Stuart and I walked down to the periferico, and caught a colectivo headed towards Tlacolula. (note: if I come back to live this life again, I want to be the conductor on a Tlacolula bus, because that word is so much fun to say!) I asked the driver to let us off at the road leading to Dainzu. Stuart came here a couple of weeks ago, when I was in the embroidery class, and said I must make this trip, too.  Dainzu is a Zapotec ruin that is visible from the main highway through the valley. One of my favorite places in the valley is the ruins of Yagul, which are close by. But, today, we're visiting Dainzu. There is a restoration effort underway, and the state has the familiar signs giving a little history of the place, and a little about the site. The signs are written in spanish, Mayan or Zapotec, and english. I always read the spanish part, to test my comprehension. It's a short walk up a badly paved road to the site. It's early, it's Saturday, and there is no one here. Soon, though, the caretaker finds us, and with a smile asks for the 31 peso entry fee, which we are happy to pay. He points out a couple of things we might want to see, and wanders back to his shade tree and daily paper.

These ruins are not far from Monte Alban, the ancient government capitol. At it's height, Monte Alban is said to have been the home to more than 40,000 people. This site, however, is not a large city, but a religious ceremony center. It's apex was about 500 b.c.e. - 300 a.d., and about 1000 people lived here. It was built not for strategic purposes, I believe this built was before the warring began, but for the beautiful view looking north up the valley. The highest point is the ceremonial platform, about three sets of steep steps up, and it's tucked up close to a small mountain. From up here, we can see the ball court, and the only other building being interpreted now.

There are probably more ruins, they seem to be scattered along the valley like toys. In the photo below taken from the top of the ceremonial platform, I can see one side of the ball court, and barely the village of San Jeronimo Tlacochahuya in the distance.

In tomb 7 - I've noticed that all ruins seem to have an Important Tomb 7  - there is a carving of a jaguar above the door. The animals arms hang down, creating the sides of the door. I took this picture by holding the camera through the bars that prevented us from getting any closer...

The caretaker pointed out the covered portion of the site work that protects about 30 stones with bas-relief carvings of ball players. I wished I had some newsprint and some chalk! What rubbings I could capture here! This is one of the larger sculptures, more complete than some of the others, too. The stones were literally part of the mountain, with a rock wall built around them.

It's a little cooler today than last week, and we leave the ruin site by walking west through the site. We find an animal path through some low brush, and with the bell tower of the San Jeronimo in our sight, we walk through some empty milpas, corn fields, then some fields that are being irrigated and growing corn, beans and garlic. The path eventually intersects with a dirt road. We see a few people working in the fields, and take a break under a big tree to have some bagel/cream cheese/smoked salmon left from last night's card games with our neighbors. When we begin walking again, a man meets us from his alfalfa field, and we talk a little. Jose tells us not to miss seeing the beautiful church in his home town, and we assure him that it's our intent to see it. His english is very good, but speaks spanish with me when I tell him I'm studying, and corrects me. We walk on, leaving him to supervise a small group of men who have just ridden to the fields on their bicycles.

Dia del amor

No pics today, lo siento.  Yo empece (I began) spanish class again this week, five days, 3 hours a day.  Past tense!  No longer will I have to jab my thumb over my shoulder when I stumble through something in present tense, but mean past tense.  OK, give me a couple of weeks to remember a couple of past tense verbs.  I'm once again getting a week to be totally humbled with the aquisition of new knowledge.  The first two weeks of spanish class were attention getter's, and the week of embroidery with Nativdad was a true lesson in patience and humility, but I've learned in all the classes.  There is hope!

Maria, our sweet landlady, gave everyone in the 'hood tamales for comida, lunch, yesterday  She had them made by a friend.  One was filled with chicken and mole, traditional, and the other was filled with peppers, onions and chicken.  Both were delicious!  They were delivered, bagged and ribboned, still warm.  Stuart also gave me gifts:  a helium balloon and a beautiful embroidered blouse. Several friends admired his good taste, the blouse is golden yellow with multi-colored embroidery.  I'm cooking tonight, my gift to Stuart.  A chicken dish that is traditionally served at weddings.

A quiet week, sure to mostly filled with study for me.  But, I'll make time for a cup of chocolate, for sure!

Around la Trucha

From the cabana, the view east, of the restaurant and one of the fish tanks...

















la cabana...

















Some flowers Noel planted. There are roses, calla lillies, giant geranium, even gianter begonias, and other flowers I can't name...
















Stuart and our evening entertainment...we needed the warmth, too.

Tomorrow, we'll go back to the Big City, and leave this pretty paradise.











We woke up in the clouds Saturday morning!  There is even a slight drizzle.  By 9am, the clouds had moved east, and even though the day was cooler than yesterday, it was sunny.  After hugs and many thanks to Noel, we found a colectivo, a group taxi, for the one hour ride down the muy sinuoso , very curvy road back to the City.

A

flora and fish pics

This little bloom, out of focus, looks a little like an orchid, but it's not.

















Pinecones from two different elevations...

















A huge bromeliad, one of thousands we saw today. This must be an amazing sight in the rainy season.





















Concepcion, with my dinner, which she just 'fished' out of the tank. I'll eat this fish in less than 30 minutes.

At the Summit

Noel predicted our hike up would take about 2 - 2.5 hours. Not being a professional guide, he didn't know that folks who live at 3 meters above sea level would have a hard time breathing at 3000 meters above sea level! Stuart and I, thinking that we're in pretty good condition, found we were struggling to breath. It got better, but it was tiring.

At the summit, there is a sign posted by the ecotourism group, that tells us we're at 3150 meters. It explains that some of the plants growing here have been growing here since the time of the dinasaurs; that for the ancient Aztecs, this was a main highway across the high mountains. I can tell you that today, the trees growing at this elevation are stunted by the cold and the winds. With this one exception, pictured at the left.

I think this is an oak tree. It is eerily hung with golden moss, and is by far the biggest tree up here. We're in the cloud forest, a remnant island of the Ice Age flora. Many species, such as wild begonias, ferns, dwarf bamboo, liquid ambers and many others have a common ancestry with the flora in the mountains in the southeastern US. I see several plants that grow in 'our' ancient Smokey Mountains. The cloud forest covers the Gulf-facing northern slopes at altitudes between 6500 and 10,000 feet (2000 - 3000 meters). I look around for the Disney sign that points out that this is a good photo location. The rest of this mountain top is equally surreal looking!




Both Christopher and I only hesitate a second before racing each other to climb the tree! The problem, as always, is not getting up but getting down.
















Another 100 meters (this is the LAST part of the climb!), and we find a tall, metal tower, and we climb another 50 steps to the top, for this view....





We're above the clouds! There is a village under these clouds, one where bananas and coffee are grown. On the horizon, we can see an even taller bank of clouds. Noel tells us that Volcan de Orizaba, Mexico's highest mountain, is hiding underneath. The view, along with the altitude, takes our breath away. It's cold up here, but we're in the sun, and we sit on the metal platform for lunch of tortillas, queso, fruit and water, which Noel brought in his back pack. There is no better lunch place on the planet right now!





We enjoy the view, and lunch, and realize that we're rested and ready for the long hike back. It's after 3 when we start down the mountain, but we pause on the opposite side of the mirador, for the view to the south and west. These trees suffer from a combination of cold, wind and pine beetle. Across the valley, there are several thin bald spots on the mountain. Noel tells us those trees were cut to save the rest of the forest from beetles. They are burned on site, and the committee has already begun replanting. This forest is managed as carefully as a one-acre tomato field.

The hike back down to la Trucha is much easier, and quicker. We make it back in about 2 hours...in time for Noel to feed the fish. He turned on the water heater for us, and we order dinner before showering, which allowed the two women time to cook and close the restaurant close to the usual 6pm normal.

Our feet are tired, but we are energized by walking the ancient road, the views and the idea that we hiked uphill at 3000 meters, about 6 miles one way. All without seeing another human, except 4 people in the distance, replanting a hillside above the reservoir.

Rich in Diversity

Ix is the Aztec word for the fibers of the maguey plant. A particular maguey was grown for the fibers, which were used to weave many useful things. Now, a different maguey is King Crop Oaxaca, but it's for the hearts which are used to make mezcal. In the Sierra Norte, there is almost no maguey grown, neither do you see nopales, the host plant for cochineal. But the people here grow a lot of wood. The thick forests covering this part of the Sierra Norte. The cut very little, and replant quickly, which keeps the forests alive with a wide range of both plants and animals. Orchids and bromeliads grow here, that don't grow any other place in the world. Ferns and mosses, too. And, all species of Mexican native cats (jaguar and mountain lion), spiker monkeys and tapirs live here. Many of these animals have disappeared from other places in Mexico. The diversity is so great that a group of experts with the World Wildlife Fund have rated the local forests as one of the world's 17 outstanding biodiverse systems.

Ixtlan is the capitol of its own governmental district. The village owns all the land, and gives the residents permission to use what they need. The money from the timber profits are shared, and pay for village services. Right now, the streets are being dug up to replace water lines for the entire village. The village also manages the ecotourism, providing guides and offering remote cabins for rent. Noel had to visit the office our first morning, before coming up to la trucha, to get permission to take us into the forest. I think he was not allowed to charge us, we just sort of deduced that when we declined payment the next day. We gave im a 'tip' instead!
We began by walking up the hill behind the restaurant, following his water lines from above. A little way up the hill, we came to a concrete building, with a huge water line coming into it...the water source for the town is the same spring he uses for his trout. There is electricity up here, and I think he could get a line down to his restaurant, if he wants it. A little further beyond the reservoir, we stepped into an ancient foot path and began seriously climbing. We're walking on the Camino Real, the old road the Aztecs, Apotec and Mixtec traders used between the Gulf Coast and the Valley of Oaxaca. I get a shiver from the thought that this trail has been in use for probably 1000 years.

The heavy rains last August have caused landslides all over this part of the world, we saw much damage in Guatemala. Here, we can see washes, but the forest has protected the soil. Still, there are a few small slides, with downed trees. Noel shows us a plate mushroom from under a specific kind of tree (oak, I think), that is used for carving when it's dry. He took a few photos, documenting the damage in a few places, for his use and the use of the forest management team.

Today is pretty special for us all. Noel's son, Christopher, is out of school, and this is the first time he's hiked this trail. Christopher is 8 years old, and grinned all day, taking photographs of everything in sight. Here, we're passing through a flat section of the trail. You can see a small wash in the middle of the ancient road.


Orchids and bromliads growing in every tree, it seems. At one point, we begin to see the bromeliads growing on the ground, too. They are everywhere! This one, on the ground, was blooming. Most of the orchids were not blooming, and while I took lots of photos, none are good representations. Noel stopped to point out many plants to us, and to Christopher. We stopped often, to let the gringos breathe, too. Ixtlan is about 9000 feet, and we're climbing higher with almost every step. Noel has mistakenly predicted it will take us about 2 - 2.5 hours La Pozuelos, the summit offering a spectacular vista. About 3 hours into the hike, we begin to question our fitness, but rest again and keep going.


This was a point of interest for Noel...his water lines are very close to this small slide. We talked about the possiblity of the trees coming down and damaging his lines. He was paying attention to every detail as we walked. Nothing escaped his notice! If you look closely, you can see a bromeliad growing about 5 feet off the ground, on the trunk of a small, broken tree.

We climbed through various zones, the plants and trees changing all day. We didn't see any animal life, but in the dried leaves, we made about as much noise as a marching band. Interestingly, Noel didn't know the word for moss. And, there is much moss of all kinds, growing in the trees and on the ground. He pointed out a plant, much like mistletoe, that is called muertogado (I think that's what he said!), which means killer. It sucks the life out of hardwoods, growing in the top branches.

Thankfully, there was a little cloud cover. We were working hard, and even in the cool fresh air, we were sweating.

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