Sunday, February 13, 2011

At the Summit

Noel predicted our hike up would take about 2 - 2.5 hours. Not being a professional guide, he didn't know that folks who live at 3 meters above sea level would have a hard time breathing at 3000 meters above sea level! Stuart and I, thinking that we're in pretty good condition, found we were struggling to breath. It got better, but it was tiring.

At the summit, there is a sign posted by the ecotourism group, that tells us we're at 3150 meters. It explains that some of the plants growing here have been growing here since the time of the dinasaurs; that for the ancient Aztecs, this was a main highway across the high mountains. I can tell you that today, the trees growing at this elevation are stunted by the cold and the winds. With this one exception, pictured at the left.

I think this is an oak tree. It is eerily hung with golden moss, and is by far the biggest tree up here. We're in the cloud forest, a remnant island of the Ice Age flora. Many species, such as wild begonias, ferns, dwarf bamboo, liquid ambers and many others have a common ancestry with the flora in the mountains in the southeastern US. I see several plants that grow in 'our' ancient Smokey Mountains. The cloud forest covers the Gulf-facing northern slopes at altitudes between 6500 and 10,000 feet (2000 - 3000 meters). I look around for the Disney sign that points out that this is a good photo location. The rest of this mountain top is equally surreal looking!




Both Christopher and I only hesitate a second before racing each other to climb the tree! The problem, as always, is not getting up but getting down.
















Another 100 meters (this is the LAST part of the climb!), and we find a tall, metal tower, and we climb another 50 steps to the top, for this view....





We're above the clouds! There is a village under these clouds, one where bananas and coffee are grown. On the horizon, we can see an even taller bank of clouds. Noel tells us that Volcan de Orizaba, Mexico's highest mountain, is hiding underneath. The view, along with the altitude, takes our breath away. It's cold up here, but we're in the sun, and we sit on the metal platform for lunch of tortillas, queso, fruit and water, which Noel brought in his back pack. There is no better lunch place on the planet right now!





We enjoy the view, and lunch, and realize that we're rested and ready for the long hike back. It's after 3 when we start down the mountain, but we pause on the opposite side of the mirador, for the view to the south and west. These trees suffer from a combination of cold, wind and pine beetle. Across the valley, there are several thin bald spots on the mountain. Noel tells us those trees were cut to save the rest of the forest from beetles. They are burned on site, and the committee has already begun replanting. This forest is managed as carefully as a one-acre tomato field.

The hike back down to la Trucha is much easier, and quicker. We make it back in about 2 hours...in time for Noel to feed the fish. He turned on the water heater for us, and we order dinner before showering, which allowed the two women time to cook and close the restaurant close to the usual 6pm normal.

Our feet are tired, but we are energized by walking the ancient road, the views and the idea that we hiked uphill at 3000 meters, about 6 miles one way. All without seeing another human, except 4 people in the distance, replanting a hillside above the reservoir.
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