Aztomp, Oax.

We've been 'home' for a couple of days from our Guatemala trip, and our neighbors, Eshkie and Gerry invited us to join them to go to Aztompa. There are many things we love out being here: so many arts; so many villages where specific art is made, very close to the city; the food; our little community at Villa Maria.

Aztompa is just west of the huge, important ancient Mayan city of Monte Alban. We can see one of the Monte Alban structures on the hill from our rooftop garden. Aztompa spreads over the western end of Monte Alban, where there are acres and acres that haven't been excavated. But, the city is not looking at it's past so much as looking forward to making more beautiful pottery. The city is known for it's distinctive green glazed bowls. I think every restaurant in the city has several sitting on the burners in the kitchen! These days, however, the artisans are making multi-colored vases, many with holes cut in them. The more skilled artists are making these unglazed figures. Eshkie had the address of one very accomplished artist, Enedina Vasquez Cruz.

Five people (and the driver) will fit in a colectivo, a compact car, and we were six (Rita and Al were with us, too), so I hopped in a separate colectivo. We later learned there was a bus from the central. The trip is just across the river, about 15 minutes away. I had no idea where in the little village we were going, so got out in the center. The others, thank goodness, saw me on the sidewalk, and stopped. Enedina's shop is just around the corner.

This piece, with all the roses at figure's feet, is the second copy. The first is now in a museum in Mexico City. Enedina is recognized all over the country for her skills, and has earned many awards and recognitions. I didn't ask any prices, but am sure this piece was marked at several thousand pesos.


The faces on her sculptures are so sweet! This figure caught my eye...I love the bowl of fish in her hands.

Rita wanted to buy just one of the figures of this group but it's not to be broken up (detailed photo, too). There is time! Enedina will make another one...Rita choses another figure. Some of the work on display in the tiny gallery is the work of her husband and 10-year old son. But, her work is the reason for the gallery, and she's very gracious. I didn't buy anything, but was surely tempted!

Later, we walked to the artisan's mercado, and I'm glad we saw Enedina's work first. The stuff here is fine, but the quality of the work was far below what we saw at Enedina's gallery. I'll post a couple more pics...