Lima, redux

      We arrived in Lima more than a month ago, and because we are flying out of  Lima, we return.  But, not to the central historic section, but to Miraflores.  We arrived after dark, and after getting a taxi from the bus station to Miraflores in unbelievably heavy traffic, we couldn't find the hostels our sweet host in Paracas had recommended.  After walking more than 25 blocks on crowded streets, I felt a little like the urban version of Cheryl Strayed!  After asking at three hostels,  we found a room.  Lux Luther Hostel had one room in an old house, with a bath that had been added to what I'm guessing was originally the main living room.  Superman himself, and his brother Lex Luther were our hosts, and from the beginning we knew this was going to be a good place!

The next day, we walked the few blocks down to the ocean, where found a several-mile-long park along the cliff, with magnificent views.  Of course, there was a lighthouse!  Well planned, this park separates the high-rise condo buildings from the cliff, giving everyone an outdoor space in the city.  We watched the surfers below, the joggers beside us, and gazed open-mouthed at the condos above.

We'd been soaking up the long and colorful history of Peru for more than a month, and it was time to visit the Museo Nacional Arqueologia, Antropologia y Historia Peru, to pull it all together in one place.


Beginning the story before there were words, we saw beautifully saved and restored textiles.  The pottery from many cultures told more story than any words could, using all the important daily items, gods and animals from the lives of the old civilizations.  I loved the pottery!  It is one of the great museums, and I could spend many more days here.  My energy gave up long before we reached the modern era displays.  I did walk through the museum to see the Cusco School paintings, to see the Last Supper painting before we quit the place.  Here are a few pictures of pottery that were safely inside glass cases...




































































   I learned of a not good, but Great ceviche restaurant, which is saying a lot in the town known for ceviche.  I thought we'd have our last supper there, but learned that it was only open for lunch.  I also read that it is in terrible part of the city, and taking a taxi even during the day was strongly advised.  So, we hopped in a taxi and aimed for El Veridicio de Fidel.  oohboy, it is indeed in a not-nice part of town, but the place is sparklingly white and clean, and the waiters all wore white shirts and black ties, very smart looking.  Business people, students, grandparents and working people paraded continuously past our table while we were there, greeting each other and aiming for a table as quickly as possible, eager to order.  Stuart and I did not order fancy:  we had ceviche and soup.  The sauce in the soup Stuart ordered was good enough to make me weep!  And, the ceviche....oh, my.   It was a perfect almost last supper.

When we returned to Lex Luther for a nap, Superman was horrified when we told him where we'd been.  Such a dangerous part of town, he exclaimed over and over.  He obviously has not eaten at El Veridico de Fidel!












Later that night, we found ourselves in the thick of the activity in Miraflores, and found Mama Olla Restaurant.  It was on a side street, quiet, and the music was nice.  Again, a star quality meal! And, the pisco sours I had were good, too.  We leave tomorrow morning, and we're ready to return to North Carolina for a few days, before leaving again.

I have no beautiful words to wrap up the writing about this trip.  Machu Pichu was the reason for coming to Peru, and we found so much more to love.  Machu Pichu was surely the most memorable part, just barely ahead of the Sacred Valley, Lago Titicaca, Colca Canyon, the giant sand dunes, Isla Ballestas at Paracas, and the very awesome Andes Mountains.  The people are so kind and strong, we always felt like the person closest to us really wanted to help us in some way.  The food was better than my dreams.  Did I say how good the people are?  We came away with a leap in our knowledge of the history of a brilliant people, an appreciation for building skills that current engineers are still studying, and pictures of beautiful and awesome natural and man-made wonders.

What a trip! Now, on to Oaxaca, Mexico, another place with so much to love.