Paracas

    Paracas.  The penultimate stop in our grand Peruvian Adventure.  I want to see the Reserva Nacional de Paracas, known to some as the Galapagos of Peru.  We arrived by bus from Haucachina, on a pretty straight road.  As is our norm, we had no reservation, but friends from Huacachina had recommended a hostel (which I of course didn't make note of), so we walked and asked at various hostels until we found them.   A short time later, we were on the beach, warm beers in hand, to watch the sunset and the fishermen readying their boats for tomorrow.

The next morning, we were picked up early by the people with whom we'd booked our islands tour.  We drove to the edge of town (we could have walked, it was very close!), and found a fast boat tied to the pier, waiting.  Thirty people, thirty orange pfds (personal flotation devices), thirty seats on the boat.

The Islas are about an hour's ride from the coast.  The cold water of the Humbolt Current flows along the coast, bringing all those tiny little sea creatures that the larger fish and birds love to eat, making this location a paradise for water-loving wildlife.  On the way to the islands, we stopped for a look at the Candelaria, a huge design in the mountainous peninsula just south of Paracas.  The Candelaria was made at about the same time as the famous Nazca Lines, and are equally as mysterious otherwise.  Look closely at the photo, you'll see details of flames or feathers.  This design in the rocks is over 300 feet tall!










At the islands, we were stunned to see millions and millions of birds!  The rare Humbolt Penguins, Ica terns, Peru Pelicans and so many other birds (my notes are in NC!).  Millions.  There is no way to describe the scene, except to say it was fascinating.  Our captain was terrific in turning the boat from side to side, to allow great views from everyone.  No one is allowed on the islands, except the folks who harvest the guano.














Guano is the national gold.  Millions of tons of the naturally produced stuff has been harvested in the past 100 years.  Once, when it had not been harvested for many years, the largest island's height was lowered by 30 feet after the harvest!  We passed the pier used for loading, it was far above our heads, testifying to the size of the ships that haul away the precious raw material.  Would I want that job?  I think not, even if it meant I'd get the chance to see those fine birds and sea lions at a closer range.



















The sea lions are the largest creatures who live here, and they were sunning on the rocks.  We watched a couple of juvenils playing, and trying to climb back up out of the water.


The penguins and the pelicans were beautiful.

Our guide pointed out nests of baby terns, which we would have otherwise not seen.  They make their nests from their own poop.  Talk about recycling!   These little dudes - dudettes? - still had the fluff before real feathers.  To have seen this concentration of wildlife was yet another highlight of the trip.