preview of Dia de los Muertos, Oaxaca

            Not actually Dia de los Muertos, day 1, just day one in the city for us! We arrived in Oaxaca late last night, and found our sweet landlady waiting to let us into our apartment.  I got extra hugs and kisses from Maria,  who hugged us goodbye only six months ago.  We found our apartment just like we left it, including the boxes of personal things sitting in the hall. 

If I were blindfolded and somehow transported to Oaxaca, I'd recognize the city from the smell.  There is something deep and sweet, like the taste of something I can't describe, something that smells like marigolds and cooking tortillas.  I wanted to wander the streets last night, to greet my old neighborhood, but was too tired to go back out.  We fell asleep with the window open, and no heavy covers to keep us warm.

Breakfast at Marco Pollo, by the Parque Llano started the day just exactly right!  Fresh squeezed juice, really good coffee and huevos rancheros.  Afterwards, we walked through the center of town, and to the Juarez market to buy coffee from the local dude.  Dan and Tere live behind this man who roasts the coffee in his kitchen, the coffee he sells in his puesto in the mercado.  Of course, a trip to the Chedraui is a must, for basics.  Because it's Sunday, we missed the Saturday produce market, so we buy just a few juice oranges, some beer, gin and tequila, milk and cereal, dish washing soap and a papaya.  I'll go to Paschal Sanchez mercado tomorrow for freshly made yogurt, and then to Pan y Co for bread.  It takes a few days to get stocked!

Late in the day, we joined Jo Ann and Tom for a lovely concert at the San Pablo Museum, a gorgeous renovation project completed last year.  The 300 year old convent buildings occupy almost a city block, and the courtyard and gallery space is a gem in the city.  The concert was music for Day of the Dead.  Yes, the percussionist is playing  clay jug!  And, he played a hand-made box drum later, too. 

Afterwards, we walked up Alcala to catch the costume parade, people from San Pablo Etla.  Jo Ann heard about it earlier, and we caught up with the crowd above the Sto. Domingo.  They were led by a man with a bull whip who could make it sound like fireworks!  He was good for clearing a path through the crowd, too.  His stamina was awesome.

Here are a few pics I snapped of the celebrants.  El Dia de los Muertos festival is only going to get better in the next few days!














This angel's fingers were terrible!


















































NOT a real baby!





















NOT real stitches!





















The Real Whip Dude.