Tere's family Posada

Stuart, with his mouth full, Tere and Dan. We were invited to Tere's in-laws for their annual Christmas Posada. I met almost the entire family, on her late husband's side, and felt like I was a lost sister welcomed home. We gathered outside on the Winter Solstice, under a beautifully clear sky and full moon, for a traditional posada and meal. Tere's sister-in-law, Rosaria ("call me Rosie!") decorated their courtyard with white tableclothes and pretty plates, napkins and cups. A cousin, who cooks in a nice restaurant, made the tamales. The. Best. Tamale. I've. EVER. tasted! We also had hot atole, a delicious, typical corn drink that's been around since before Columbus arrived. And, then, bunelos for dessert! A bunelo is a large, crispy fried tortilla, drizzled heavily with honey and then sprinkled with coarse sugar. Delicious! The tradition is to eat one at midnight on Christmas Eve, then throw your ceramic bowl against the wall of the church. We ignored the "throw your bowl" part.




This is our hostess, Rosie, and her great-grandson, Alijandro (Tere's grandson).
















 
But , I'm getting ahead of the story...First, we each took three tiny sparklers and a toy whistle, a candle and a sheet of music. Ah, the words to the song we sang at the Spanish Magic Posada. I know this tradition, even if I don't know the tune! We somehow divided into two groups, one outside and one in the house.  We sang, back and forth, one group representing Joseph and Mary, and the other group representing all the hotel owners with sold-out hotels. You know the story, and we eventually found a place to spend the night. Then, we were invited inside to place the nativity (sans baby) in it's place of honor. In front of the tv. Beside a statue of Santa and Rudolph and another statue of a god I didn't recognize but guess has pre-Columbian significance. The candle, sparklers and whistles were then all employed, and we made light and noise in the courtyard. You have to love this mixto religion!  

El mejor tamale! The best tamale!

Tere, in her sweet thoughtfulness, even had a gift for Stuart and me. Imagine our surprise!Back inside once again, our host handed out a gift to each person, who was called forward one at a time along with the giver, and hugs and kisses exchanged. This was not easy, as it's a very big family, and the living room was jammed with us all.


We finished the evening, under the full moon, with conversation and hugs. Serbando, Rosie's husband (Tere's brother-in-law) poured mezcal for those who wanted it, and with our little spanish and his little english, had the most delightful conversation, Tere and Dan smoothing the way, of course. Later, Tere and Dan dropped us off at our apartment, driving through curiously empty streets. Stuart and I went up to the roof, to watch the eclipse. A very memorable night, this Winter Solstice night. Stuart and I are very lucky to have friends like Tere and Dan, who have welcomed us into a part of Oaxacan life we would have never seen, and have done it with love.